Beginner’s Guide to HDR
Well, you’ve done cheap Macro photos in the last post, so it’s time to try this madfangled HDR thingy you’ve seen everyone doing.
HDR (High Dynamic Range photography) is taking a photo at low, medium and high exposure and blending them together to get the best results. You know how when you get a decent holiday sunset photo and the beach is just a black smear under the gorgeous sky, or you see all the details of the sands with a white sky? That’s what HDR kicks to the kerb. Check out this slightly exaggerated example to see what I mean.
Sunset in Glassford
HDR tries to get around the limitations of traditional photography to present images in the same way as the eye sees them. When you look at a sunset, you see the sky and the beach equally as clearly.
You can see the HDR photos on my Flickr page. As you can see, the more I do them, the less outrageous they become.
What you’ll need is a camera that does bracketing (more about this in a minute), a computer and some HDR software. We know you’ve got a computer as this isn’t a dead-tree edition so we’ll get on with the software.
Software
This is dead easy as you have two options and they’re the same on both Mac and Windows PC:
- Photomatix
- Adobe Photoshop and the Photomatix plug-in
Yes, there does indeed seem to be a pattern there. So, go get the demo of Photomatix and get your camera ready.
Camera Settings
Bracketing is the art of taking a photo and having the camera then take a darker one and a lighter one just to make sure you get the right levels of light. I won’t go into too much detail on how to do this as every camera handles it differently so open your manual and look for bracketing in the index. It’ll be there, even on lesser cameras. Oh, if you have ever read any other articles on HDR, they all stress the importance of having a good tripod, but if you don’t have a tripod, don’t worry as this tutorial is to get you past the hurdle of taking your first HDR photo to see if you like it. We’ll not be spending any money on this technique until you’re happy it’s worth buying the software and getting a decent tripod.
Before you get too bored of all this dry text, here’s the picture I’ll be showing you how to produce:
Bowling Basin
Taking your first photos
Sunsets, skies and the like. This is what you should learn on. Getting a triptych of a decent sunset or two or should set you in good stead to discover the software, or if you want to take daytime shots, a decent half-cloudy sky should provide all the contrasty goodness you need.
-2ev, 0ev, +2ev
I took three photos, without a tripod, at +2ev, 0ev and -2ev, which is posh-speak for dark, normal and light. You’ve looked up how to do bracketing on your camera by now, right?
See how on the left, you can see amazing cloud patterns in the sky but they’re above an inky blackness, and how on the right, the clearly pictured trees are sitting beneath a flat white sky? Normally, those would get stickers stuck on them by Boots the Chemist for being craply taken, but, in conjunction with the well-exposed middle photo, they are precisely what we want.
Before I forget, you need to be shooting all three shots with the same aperture settings. Look up “Aperture Priority” in your camera manual. Remember lower numbers (like f2.8) allow quicker shutter speeds but only have a short range of focus (depth of field) whereas higher numbers (f22, for instance) allow much more to remain in focus, but require more light or slower shutter speeds. If light allows it, go for higher aperture numbers, especially if you are using a tripod.
Photomatix
Load up the demo version of Photomatix and click on the Generate HDR Image button and select your three photos like so and click OK.
Screen Grab
This will give you the settings as follows. The image alignment feature can make up for our spack-handedness not using a tripod. Click OK and wait for the progress bar to do its thing.
Screen Grab
Just click through the next screen by clicking Tone Mapping.
Screen Grab
On the next screen, you’ll get loads of options. If the photo looks too weird, click Default and start again. Settings can be saved and loaded.
Screen Grab
Play with the settings until you get something that looks good. There are no hard and fast rules, but here’s one setting I find makes a huge difference in picking out detail: the Microcontrast slider.
Screen Grab
Once you’re done, you may want to save your settings. However, you will want to press Process (cropped off the bottom of these grabs, I’m afraid) and watch the progress bar march relentlessly from left to right.
Save your picture and post it on the internet somewhere for all to see. Don’t forget, when you look back at your earlier HDR attempts, you may well cringe at how overdone they look. Don’t worry about that just yet. Play with the sliders to your heart’s content and get the outrageous manipulations out of your system.
Here are some examples of my HDR photos:
Boats at Bowling
Mercurius
Graveyard
Trees
Please take the time to comment.
Update: Photos now linked to Flickr. Go comment on them there.
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- Beginner’s guide to HDR photography | Stut.net
Tue, 17 Jun 2008 11:28:28 +0000 - Beginner’s Guide to HDR at Imaging Insider
Tue, 17 Jun 2008 14:24:37 +0000 - Jimbly’s Blog » Archives » HDR
Thu, 19 Jun 2008 23:07:12 +0000 - A guide to HDR photography | dan-jackson.com
Tue, 24 Jun 2008 08:40:57 +0000 - The Beginners Guide To Photography. | 7Wins.eu
Thu, 26 Jun 2008 01:09:51 +0000 - Photography Articles Around the Web #7
Sat, 28 Jun 2008 12:59:06 +0000 - 3 articles on High Dynamic Range Photography « Coliseo: bringing the fun back to the people
Mon, 14 Jul 2008 01:18:13 +0000 - 22 Tutorials For Creating High Dynamic Range Photographs Using Photoshop / Photomatix by projectVISUAL.NET
Sat, 09 Aug 2008 20:12:32 +0000 - Holiday 2008 part 1: The Scottish Highlands | Stut.net
Tue, 11 Nov 2008 14:59:33 +0000 - Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber - Fishguard « jorvic
Wed, 04 Mar 2009 19:59:20 +0000 - 70 + Photographers Share Their Work | Your Photo Tips
Thu, 30 Apr 2009 17:28:48 +0000 - HDR Fun « Views Infinitum
Wed, 30 Sep 2009 11:08:52 +0000 - HDR software for the Mac | The 23x blog
Tue, 06 Apr 2010 18:20:16 +0000 - HDR Tutorial « Kah Wai Photography Blog
Thu, 08 Apr 2010 15:04:16 +0000 - Oscar Navarro 
Sun, 11 Jul 2010 01:16:54 +0000 - Daniel San
Fri, 23 Jul 2010 17:48:21 +0000
Tue, 17 Jun 2008 09:50:05 +0000
Oooh. I’ve been wondering about this. Next time I take my Rebel out, I’m going bracketing!
Tue, 17 Jun 2008 10:06:47 +0000
Nice tutorial Jared…… That HDR with the boats is awesome!
Tue, 17 Jun 2008 14:52:54 +0000
There is a free program called Picturenaut if anyone wants to dip their toes in the water: http://www.hdrlabs.com/picturenaut/
By the way, your blog concerning munchy boxes caused me to soil my underwear and I will be seeking compensation.
Tue, 17 Jun 2008 21:21:44 +0000
Ooooo, i was wondering how people made those fotos. Wonder if my camera can do that? Wonder if I can find my camera manual…
Tue, 17 Jun 2008 21:59:34 +0000
Oh, before I forget, please Digg this story here:
http://digg.com/arts_culture/Beginner_s_Guide_to_HDR
Tue, 17 Jun 2008 22:26:54 +0000
I had no qualms in digging this guide.
Wed, 18 Jun 2008 00:11:36 +0000
Thanks for sharing, now I know how to impress others :0
Wed, 18 Jun 2008 01:55:05 +0000
I sandwich slides (with different levels of focus) to get a dreamy effect. This looks like something else fun to play with. Thanks
Wed, 18 Jun 2008 14:20:12 +0000
Hi,
is there a plugin or tool for the gimp? Photoshop is great peace of software, put much to expensive for me.
//Arne
Wed, 18 Jun 2008 14:55:49 +0000
Arne,
Photomatix doesn’t need Photoshop to do this. What you can do is run the demo of Photomatix on its own and then open the result in The Gimp.
ps. The Gimp sucks. No, really, it does. It’s a worthy and valiant attempt, but … yeah, it sucks. Friends don’t let friends use sucky software.
Thu, 19 Jun 2008 16:03:36 +0000
Even simpler HDR…, if your camera supports RAW, shoot one picture. Then use the Photomatrix plugin in tatty shop on your 16bit image (though it is more likely that unless you have a REALLY expensive camera, you’ll actually have a 12-14 bit image, but I digress). You’ll be amazed at how little difference it makes from the 3 photo approach, and means that you don’t have to shoot with a tripod… win-win!
Thu, 19 Jun 2008 17:00:00 +0000
RAW isn’t proper HDR per se. RAW will allow you to tone-map images, but at that point, you can convert a single JPEG to a 16-bit TIFF and tone-map it too.
For instance, this was a single JPEG:
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 18:08:23 +0000
Welcome b3tards. I hope you like my pictures.
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 18:23:38 +0000
Am I right in thinking that the first of the big examples is Bowling Basin on the Clyde, at the end of the Forth and Clyde canal?
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 18:55:59 +0000
This is a pretty lazy way of acheiving something using a tatty piece of software that you’d be better off learning to do the correct way in the long run…
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 19:01:04 +0000
Great guide. If you’re a cheaparse like me and only have a standard Canon point and shoot (most of the Ixus range for example) then you can still get in on the action.
Some bright sparks have rewritten the firmware to access a bunch of hidden features, including raw shooting and bracketing! Let joy be unconfined. There’s more info and the download at:
http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK_in_Brief
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 19:21:53 +0000
Could anyone recommend a good (camera) to do this with?
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 20:10:41 +0000
This is top. I’ve dabbled in HDR before and I’ve told admirers of my photos that it isn’t hard. You’ve just showed them it isn’t; better than I could.
Demystifying is cool.
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 20:26:25 +0000
Wow, this is an EXCELLENT tutorial. I thought the muchy box one prior to this was informative and well-written, but this one is WONDERFUL. I have tried to read tutorials regarding this type of photography but I was always left feeling confused. I will be back to read any topic you choose to discuss here.
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 20:27:04 +0000
Of course I meant “munchy box.”
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 21:43:52 +0000
You can get similar results with any image, though its never going to be as good as a proper bracketed image.
Just create 3 images in photoshop using the exposure setting to create one image -2 and one +2 exposure then build it into a hdr using either photoshop or photomatix.
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 21:44:50 +0000
I find as well if you edit your photo on IPHOTO on the mac and change the exposure manually you only need to take one photo. Duplicate the photo, change one to high exposure, and one to low exposure, leaving the original as it. Just in case you camera doesnt have this feature. Nice easy-to-use and understand blog though, thanks.
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 21:49:00 +0000
Thanks for this – I must do more HDR work. For Linux users (and skinflint PC / Mac users) there’s an open source HDR application: Qtpsfgui (http://qtpfsgui.sourceforge.net/) that can save in various common HDR formats.
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 21:54:53 +0000
lol Rory just beat you to it there:)
Another nice trick is to flatten your final image, duplicate it then set the top layer to soft light and fine tune with the layer opacity.
It works in a similar way making darks darker and lights lighter and deepening teh contrast of your colours.
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 22:01:53 +0000
@Ian
Yes, this is from Bowling Basin on the Clyde.
@John Smith’s Bitter
Um, wtf? I’d love to know what the ‘correct way’ of doing this is. Let’s face it, you’re not going to get this in the lens without special filters and managed lighting. If you’re doing it off the camera, the moment you take it off the memory card, all bets are off; from that moment on, there is no ‘correct way’. If you have any tutorials that show us how to do this the correct way (remembering this is for beginners) then I’d love to be enlightened.
@All those faking it with one image, what’s wrong with just converting the JPEG into a 16-bit TIFF in Potatoshop?
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 23:15:12 +0000
Thanks!
That’s a great article, and smashing photos.
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 23:35:29 +0000
I love clouds. I have billions of pics of them as I walk my dogs at sunset and sunrise most days and always carry a camera. But now I can have that bit under them as well in the shot, the ground! Hoopy Doo, I’m going to have fun slapping the pictures about until they look as good as yours. Fantastic. Just the carrot I needed to get me up in the morning to trapes about deserted fields in the wet yet again.
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 23:45:13 +0000
A mate recently put me onto HDR and photomatix. He’s a PC guy. I’m a mac. But there is a hidden gem in the (PC-only) software to get rid of the demo’s watermarks. Tone map your image – and once your happy save the settings. Then flick into the ‘batch processing’ option – select images, and saved settings, and viola, no watermarks…and out of pocket developers. Catch it while i lasts.
Sat, 21 Jun 2008 09:20:35 +0000
@Jared Earle
“@All those faking it with one image, what’s wrong with just converting the JPEG into a 16-bit TIFF in Potatoshop?”
Nothing I guess, don’t know enough to be able to tell you otherwise, as you said there is no correct way. I’ll have to give it a try though so cheers for that.
Sat, 21 Jun 2008 16:27:10 +0000
I will try this technic tomorrow! Many thanks for this tutorial.
Sun, 22 Jun 2008 00:16:30 +0000
This is very cool. I shall have a look in the Missus’s camera manual and see what it can do. It’s a pretty decent camera, so it should have it. Here goes nothing!
Mon, 23 Jun 2008 20:30:44 +0000
This is great fun.
Anyone know what John Smith’s Bitter was on about, or is he just a random loon?
Mon, 23 Jun 2008 21:33:45 +0000
@AlecMac,
No idea what he was on about. I think he was just a drive-by troll.
Tue, 24 Jun 2008 08:27:52 +0000
I really liked the ‘boats’ – one of the best HDR photos I’ve seen! I’ve dabbled in HDR myself [using Photmatix-basic] but was never happy with my un-realistic results.
Maybe I should have kept on trying??
Cheers
John
Tue, 24 Jun 2008 11:20:47 +0000
@shh.. don’t tell the developers
thanks for that! just tried it, it worked a treat! watermark free images. excellent.
Tue, 24 Jun 2008 15:48:31 +0000
Sh… don’t tell the developers – Thank you soooo much!!! I’ve been going crazy downloading other programs to get around the stupid watermarking, and nothing works right. Thank you!!!!
Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:15:15 +0000
I’m a software developer on an very small income … I’ve worked for 15 years on projects just like this one, projects designed to make sure that these little computer programs are all easier for people like you to understand….
Thu, 26 Jun 2008 16:35:26 +0000
One piece of information I forgot to mention is that you should ideally be shooting in Aperture Priority mode. I’ve edited the article accordingly.
Thu, 26 Jun 2008 23:52:31 +0000
So pretty… *sigh*
Going to have to dig out my camera manual now, but it’ll be great to give my tripod some use.
Sat, 28 Jun 2008 03:52:07 +0000
[…]Good site I “Stumbledupon” it today and gave it a stumble for you.. looking forward to seeing what else you have..later[…]
Mon, 30 Jun 2008 20:16:10 +0000
Surely shooting one image in RAW and then creating three copies at -2, 0 and +2 EV in software and using them is the same as taking 3 JPGs with different EV values at shoot time?
I just don’t understand how that be classed as “cheating” at HDR, as the whole point of shooting in RAW is that you can change EV value and WB later.
Mon, 30 Jun 2008 20:29:12 +0000
Shooting at +/-2EV isn’t the same as setting the exposure in RAW: Your camera simply doesn’t have 4EV stops of dynamic range in the sensor.
If in doubt, try it. You’ll see that you cannot create depth and detail where there is none.
Mon, 21 Jul 2008 16:06:15 +0000
@All those faking it with one image, what’s wrong with just converting the JPEG into a 16-bit TIFF in Potatoshop?
Well, nothing, but it doesn’t gain you anything.
Think of the histograms. Let’s say normal processing is a 12-bit sensor saved as RAW format and converted to 16-bit (TIFF) for photoshopping around. This corresponds to a contrast-range in the source scene – sky 6 stops brighter than ground, for example. When you do HDR, you build a 32-bit image with greater range and greater detail – more information in shadows and highlights and smoother throughout. If you were to convert a pure HDR image straight to a JPEG, you’d simply think it looked very low-contrast.
If you take an 8-bit JPEG and apply a gamma curve to darken it 1 stop, all that happens is the lower part of the histogram (midtone and darker) get compressed and the higher part expands – so you lose detail. By doing that twice your 32-bit image has merely gained errors in tone-placement – you don’t gain image-data, merely the illusion of it which might look favourable if you’re lucky.
Tonemapping is where you use some algorithm to simulate apparent increased contrast locally within an image – mostly spatially (adjacent pixels) with some consideration for the pixel values. This is where you have the option to make it look whizzy but disgusting, or exercise some restraint and strive for normality
ObExample: hdr panorama.
Cameras: what you want to avoid is any pixel changing value unnecessarily between exposures – so you need a still scene or very long exposure for motion-blur – and fix the aperture and focus distance and vary the speed only. You can get somewhere with a simple point-’n'-shoot and exposure compensation; a dSLR would be better so you’re shooting RAW in the first place and have a nice lower-noise sensor. There’s nothing to stop you doing it with film if you want, as long as you can control the scans to represent the different exposures.
Software: free alternatives include FDRTools and qtpfsgui.
Mon, 08 Sep 2008 00:55:07 +0000
So I was trying to do HDR and I started off doing it ‘wrong’, so I thought, hey, Jared has a tutorial on HRD. Sure enough, I was doing things wrong . . . So I read through your tutorial, and all becomes clear, especially your note about Aperture Priority . . .
However, my camera, a Digital Rebel EOS XTi, has a (at least in my view) peculiar bracketing function. As far as I can tell, I can bracket Blue/Amber, or Green/Magenta, but, I see no way to bracket both. In addition, fairly extensive web searches on the subject have turned up nothing useful that might tell me (1) if bracketing in bot axes is even possible, and, if not, which axis ought I to bracket.
Cheers, Henry
Thu, 06 Nov 2008 20:36:02 +0000
Great tutorial. I would like to add that, after spending plenty of time in Photomatix, I re-focused (ha) on the shooting for HDRs and that is when my results became loads better. I like what you said about the results getting better with practice and I also think that after practice with tone mapping you will improve your shooting since you know what to expect. So set your camera to spot metering and measure the highlights areas and shadow areas of your scene!!
Thu, 06 Nov 2008 23:46:58 +0000
I had never known such a thing was possible, great work JJ, I’ll be sure to try it some time.
Sun, 25 Jan 2009 15:16:19 +0000
This is just so great…. One question though…. Raw or jpeg what is best for Hdr
Sun, 25 Jan 2009 15:21:29 +0000
Sorry one more question… when i try Hdr i have a lot of noise…i shoot in raw with a canon 400d what would cause this
Sun, 25 Jan 2009 15:35:03 +0000
Dave, a small amount of noise is inevitable. However, you can reduce the noise by always shooting at the lowest possible ISO – that’s ISO100 on your Canon – and using a tripod. If the original photos themselves come out noise-free, you may be introducing HDR noise with the software settings or with camera movement, hence the tripod advice. If all this fails, try using something like Noise Ninja to reduce the noise.
Oh, and while RAW is technically better, but every photo I’ve done recently is from best-quality JPEGs.
Good luck!
Mon, 09 Feb 2009 15:25:26 +0000
Hi, Just found your site after seeing your stuff on Flikr. Really amazing.
Want to have a try myself but as a complete amateur (photography and the computer touch up side), would the basic version be enough to produce some starter stuff or do I need the free Pro demo and have to live with the watermarks for now?
Don’t mind paying up when I get better, but didn’t want to splash out when I’m still learning
Thanks
Mon, 09 Feb 2009 15:53:58 +0000
Dave,
Excellent question. I’ve never tried the basic free version because I’m on a Mac and it’s Windows only. How about you get the demo and the basic version and do a quick comparison and post your results. I believe that the Pro version would teach you more, but not having tried both, it’s just a guess.
I’d love to see a comparison.
And yes, there’s no point in investing in a hobby until you know it’s for you.
Mon, 09 Feb 2009 17:21:01 +0000
Had a 10 minute play around with both, and the basic version seems very basic.
It only contains the tone compressor and not the details enhancer so cannot be used in this tutorial as none of the options in your guide are there.
As a beginner I’m not sure what the use of some of the tone compressor options are, but as it can’t be used in your tutorial I’ve gone with the Pro trial and have to live with the water marks for now
Sat, 21 Mar 2009 20:03:53 +0000
Fascinating piece, Jared. Thanks. It actually all makes good sense suddenly! Now all I need is a camera worthy of the name…
Oh, and the Munchy Box?
Terrifying.
And yet strangely delicious-looking, in a Homer Simpson way.
Sun, 10 May 2009 09:24:53 +0000
Hey Jared,
Thanks a lot for this tutorial… real nice and easy to understand HDR….
Let me try my hands on it now, and will post back the results ..
Fri, 07 Aug 2009 00:27:11 +0000
cool read
Mon, 07 Sep 2009 06:20:34 +0000
Simply the best Basic HDR Tutorial I’ve seen. Thanks for your help in getting us started.
Fri, 11 Sep 2009 16:06:47 +0000
Do you advise using a polarizing filter to get great skies in HDR? Will HDR produce rich sky tones without a polarizing filter?
Fri, 11 Sep 2009 16:09:12 +0000
I don’t use filters as HDR does the same job as some filters with multiple exposures. If you have a polarising filter, it may be useful with shots of water, but I think it’d be more trouble than its worth.
Tue, 10 Nov 2009 07:24:20 +0000
Where is the microcontrast slider????
Sun, 29 Nov 2009 04:18:17 +0000
What format do you save your HDR. Tiff or jpeg. I have only tried two different pictures, but they were so large when I was done they wouldn’t upload.
Thu, 03 Dec 2009 22:38:55 +0000
Bowling Basin, Mercurius and Trees look great. Boats at Bowling is a bit overdone, but not as much as the majority of HDR pictures you can see on flickr. I’m almost convinced it would be worth trying once.
Still, I would like to be able to compare an HDR picture to the best shot you can achieve without HDR. Not the individual pictures taken for the HDR but the shot you would take if for some reason you couldn’t do HDR (well, not you in particular, but the people who post HDR photographs in general trying to convince the world it’s the next best thing after peanut butter).
Thu, 03 Dec 2009 22:43:36 +0000
@Ölbaum Feel free to check out the rest of my Flickr photos if you want to see non-HDR. http://www.flickr.com/photos/jaredearle/
HDR comes into its own when there is simply too much dynamic range to capture with a standard camera. Sure, you can use a filter over the sky to capture tones you’d otherwise miss and that’s how it used to be done pre-digital.
Mon, 21 Dec 2009 12:33:03 +0000
Nice article explaining the process in simple terms. The picture of Mercurius is particularly impressive as you cannot ‘see’ the technique in the results, whereas Boats at Bowling is impressive and big and gorgeous but you can see the technique at work in the picture.
Wed, 20 Jan 2010 23:00:04 +0000
Thanks Jared. I’ve only been to Scotland as a visitor years ago and your photos bring back good memories of the rugged, beautiful terrain. I’ve just started using Photomatrix and your observations are helpful. What have you found to be the value of the “360º image” checkbox? As far as I can see, it darkens the corners (vignette); anything else? There’s nothing written about this adjustment in any of the manuals I’ve seen.
Thu, 21 Jan 2010 21:10:00 +0000
Followup to my question about “360º image”. This concerns doing stitching in panoramas, not a concern for regular images.
Mon, 22 Feb 2010 14:19:22 +0000
RT @pixfan: RT @photojack: RT @jearle: @photojack In case you've not seen it, here's my HDR tutorial: http://blog.23x.net/7/beginners-guide-to-hdr.html
Mon, 22 Feb 2010 14:22:40 +0000
RT @photojack: RT @jearle: @photojack In case you've not seen it, here's my HDR tutorial: http://blog.23x.net/7/beginners-guide-to-hdr.html
Mon, 22 Feb 2010 14:51:08 +0000
RT @photojack: RT @jearle: @photojack In case you've not seen it, here's my HDR tutorial: http://blog.23x.net/7/beginners-guide-to-hdr.html
Mon, 22 Feb 2010 15:37:32 +0000
RT @photojack: RT @jearle: @photojack In case you've not seen it, here's my HDR tutorial: http://blog.23x.net/7/beginners-guide-to-hdr.html
Mon, 22 Feb 2010 17:38:04 +0000
RT @photojack: RT @jearle: @photojack In case you've not seen it, here's my HDR tutorial: http://blog.23x.net/7/beginners-guide-to-hdr.html
Mon, 22 Feb 2010 22:30:35 +0000
http://blog.23x.net/7/beginners-guide-to-hdr.html (via @photojack)
Sun, 13 Jun 2010 03:21:13 +0000
Jared,
Thank you for posting this, and those are some damn fine shots!! Just getting started with the technique myself, I am using Corel Paint Shop Pro v2 with the HDR merge to create the shots. For now I am practicing with single JPEGS after exposure alteration using ACDSee Pro, but I was able to find the setting on the camera to take a -0.7, 0, +0.7 spread and can’t wait to give it a try.
Thanks again!
Bob
Wed, 07 Jul 2010 03:43:46 +0000
Beginner’s Guide to #HDR http://bit.ly/9IYbRr #photog #photogarphy #fotografia
Wed, 21 Jul 2010 14:08:07 +0000
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